It was one of those beautiful, warm October days that Rochesterians know to savor before the onslaught of cold. Perfect to take in the idyllic canalside setting of Richardson’s Canal House — I only wished my husband and I could dine outside. Alas, the patio was closed for the season, so we headed indoors.

Inside, my disappointment dissolved, because the 1818-era building has a charm of its own. Antique furniture, brick fireplaces and checked curtains contribute to its historic feel. The building is divided into several smallish rooms with low-slung ceilings and stenciling on the walls.

We sat in a cozy room of just four tables. Had we wanted to share a bottle of wine, we could have chosen from 246 different kinds, but we stuck to our usuals — a bourbon and Seven for him, a glass of Finger Lakes Riesling for me.

The menu, which is printed daily, features local seasonal produce. Fall flavors were represented in dishes like butternut squash bisque, a risotto with winter squashes and pumpkin crème caramel. Even our complimentary bread basket included slices studded with cranberries and nuts.

I started with pumpkin-cheddar pierogis with house-smoked bacon and apples. The stuffed dumplings were clearly handmade, the edges attractively crimped. The pierogis were soft, somewhat like a ravioli, with a dense filling that was more pumpkin than cheddar. Cubes of chewy, almost jerky-like, bacon provided a welcome contrast of flavors and texture. Skinny shards of apple were hard to discern on the palate.

My husband ordered the least creative of the menu’s four salads — Caesar — but a guy wants what a guy wants. Ordered without anchovies, it was fresh, crunchy, cheesy, garlicky and familiar.

Feeling more adventurous about his entrée selection, my husband ordered the outstanding dish of the night. Rack of lamb, cut into four Frenched chops, was brown and crispy on the outside, and magenta, medium-rare succulent meat on the inside. A thick, sticky, slightly bitter Belgian ale sauce was the perfect complement. Cheddar mashed potatoes and roasted seasonal veggies — cauliflower, broccoli, carrots and Delicata squash — rounded out this stellar dish.

I had a German-inspired dish, skate wing schnitzel with scallop spaetzle. Two thin, triangular fish filets were coated with breadcrumbs and fried until crisp and golden. They had a mild flavor and a texture midway between flaky and meaty. A lemon emulsion added brightness. The soft spaetzle, German egg noodles, were well made, but the addition of scallops made the dish overly fishy for me. It also came with the seasonal roasted vegetables.

We each ordered a house-made dessert. My husband was happy with his ice cream — a scoop of chocolate and a scoop of vanilla — served with a tender raspberry-striped cookie. I was blissful about a round of butterscotch cheesecake, sitting on a thin, chewy cookie, surrounded by drizzles of caramel and chocolate sauces and garnished with triangles of toffee.

While we both appreciated the atmosphere and the food, we were most taken with the service. When we were seated, we were given a choice between two different tables. Used cutlery was promptly cleared and replaced. When I finished my glass of wine, I remarked that I’d love a little more wine but didn’t want to order a whole glass. Our server — who I didn’t know was in earshot — offered a half glass (which I happily ordered). Best yet, impeccable service was accomplished without being intrusive or officious.

The atmosphere, service and price of the restaurant is perfectly suited for special occasions. For more casual occasions, the Cobblestone Pub within Richardson’s serves burgers, paninis and quiche while maintaining the quaint historic feel.

Source: http://www.democratandchronicle.com

HT Editor